Fading Harmony Rediscovered

It wasn't the same... just not like the old times. In the recent past, after my bike was transported to Jammu and back to be precise, the ease with which I used to ride, the comfort level and confidence were not at all what they used to be. Me and my bike were simply not running as a well oiled machine. :-) Was it because I deprived it the pleasure of being ridden on the highest motor-able road in the world, I am not sure. :-) I felt that the harmony was fading... The clear indication of it came last week when I actually, for the first time since owning the bike, banged another motorcyclist from behind. Sure, I was able to control the bike and stopped it from skidding and all that, and no injuries and not much damage to either parties involved in the accident resulted, but that was a big blow to my morale. There was a bent horn holder and a slightly bent crash guard. I did not feel like riding the bike in that condition so I used my car the entire week.

The thoughts of fixing the damage and going for a short ride started on Saturday night and after Vindy and Bandya responded in negative to my invitation I decided to do it alone, Swapna having her own plans. So first thing Sunday morning, I got to work. After taking out the horn holder I realized that the tools and tackles I had were insufficient, most of the ones I need with Vindy for their mega trip. That was a dampener and I decided to drop the idea of a ride and just go to Padmavati instead.

As I got ready at around 9.40 AM and locked the door, in a split second I changed my mind and decided to ride down to Lavasa (लवासा). Many a riders and non-riders have told me about how beautiful the scenery is and how lovely the road is for riding. So I tanked up at my usual petrol pump and checked the tire pressure and started moving toward Chandani Chauk. A board at CC informed me that Lavasa city was 44KMs. I was still a bit tentative and unsure on the bike but as the traffic thinned down and roads started winding the familiar feeling started to come back. The first sharp turn without applying brakes, at a slightly lower speed with hands pressed hard on the handle-bar and the rattle created by down-shifting of gears ringing in ears and vibrations getting transmitted through forearms. So that's how we do it :-) After that I just opened up, easily negotiating the small ghats at Bhugaon and Pirangut. This is a road well know to me so I was not looking around for the nature's beauty but just focusing on riding. Before I realized I was at Pirngut in under 30 mins taking a left turn for Lavasa.

Now I intentionally slowed down as the road changed and the scenery changed. The quality of tarmac was really good with barely a pot hole to be seen. The board indicated Lavasa to be 27 KMs away and the road was mostly a winding one through various hills. The recent rains meant that the entire landscape was covered in green and the sun was playing hide and seek due to the intermittent cloud cover. The traffic was very thin now with an occasional car here or a couple riding down there.

I was now very comfortable on the bike and ate up the miles like crazy. I was enjoying it so much so that I overcame the temptation to stop at some strategically located tea stalls for a cuppa tea. Soon the wall of Dasve dam came into sight and I was riding along side it and hit what looked like the final Ghat before Lavasa. This ghat was a riders dream with good roads and lots of hairpin bends and I was now really into it. Half way through the ghat, I finally decided to take in the view of the dam backwaters so halted and clicked a snap or two. It was 10.30 AM. Moving ahead I soon reached the Lavasa city entry gate at the top of the ghat. I had to make an entry in the register and off I went inside the city. The ghat road was now descending and I clicked a few snaps of the Lavasa city from the top. All along the journey I was planning for what I would be doing while returning, but as I approached the last hairpin turn, I noticed the boards pointing towards Panshet and Varasgaon dams.

Another impulse and I checked with the security guard, that the road really led to Panshet as promised and in the excitement forgot to ask him how far it was. The road which was smooth and gentle till now suddenly turned in to a one full of potholes and gravel and my speeds dropped down considerably. Driving down for 15 mins and so I realized I did not know how far it was. Saw a few villagers sitting by the side of the road and asked them. 20 KMs, I was told. 10 mins down again asked another villager and was informed that it will take 1.5 Hrs. :-) So finally another 5 mins and another inquiry, I was told it will take 20 mins. :-)

All this while, the road was still very rough but winding and scenery around was no less than what it was on earlier road. My confidence was back to normal, or so I felt. Controlling the bike from a slip on the rubble was no big deal now, nor was making the correct use of the entire road width while turning. An occasional car would pass, but for most part I was the lone soul on the road for kilo meters at a stretch. The road actually moves along the Varasgaon backwaters, so I always had the dam water to my right. Now I could see the wall of Varasgaon dam in the distance and was relieved to know that it will not take 1.5 Hrs. :-) Another turn and familiar shape of Sinhagad was recognizable from the mountains in the distance.

I was really thirsty now as I was riding almost non-stop barring a couple of photo breaks and the break at Lavasa entry gate. Soon negotiating the curves and gravel, I was passing along side the walls of Varasgaon and Panshet dams finally reaching to the village of Panshet at noon. The odo read 85KMs. Took a break to rehydrate myself and also had a wada pav and Tea and in 10 mins started my journey towards Pune. The road from Panshet till Sinhagad phata is really nice and smooth and I opened the throttle. As I neared the Sinhagad Phata, I remembered about a road which goes towards Bhor from here. I called up Vindy for directions, but as always he did not pick up the phone when needed. So I decided to keep going, only to realize what a big mistake it was. The moment I started my journey towards Khadakvasla, the road was full of cars and bikes and the traffic was moving at a very slow pace. From being the lone soul on the road to being surrounded by the crowd, it wasn't a transition I had wished for. I was getting impatient and soon I started ripping the bike along finally reaching the by-pass highway and in due course of time, to my house. The odo read exactly 125KM and the clock told me it was 1:00 PM.

This ride was a different one. Probably a first I did with no company. It took me through breath taking scenery, to not-so-good roads, to crowded places. But in the end I have to admit that , most importantly, the feeling of oneness when you are riding the stead, the harmony, is back.

टी. पी.

कळत नाही आधी लक्षात कसं नाही आलं ते
की मुद्दाम दुर्लक्ष करत होतो?
कारण काँप्यूटर समोर बसलो असताना
अचानक काहीतरी सुचतंय असं वाटल्यावर
किंवा मित्राने लिहिलेली, आता अंधूकशी आठवणारी एखादी ओळ शोधायला
जातो ना मी तिथे... जवळ जवळ रोजच
कधीतरी वाटलंच असेल की ती जागा चुकीची आहे
पण भिती वाटत असावी...
ते तिथून हलवलं तर सगळी उलथा पालथ तर नाही ना होणार?
जे आहे तेही निसटून तर नाही ना जाणार...
भितीच बहुदा !!
म्हणूनच आत्ताही मी विचारच करतो आहे
आणि ते सगळ्या कवितांचे फोल्डर
अजूनही टी.पी. फोल्डरच्या आतच पडलेले आहे....

A Work-out in the Vasota Trails

A couple of months back, the name Vasota had sprung up when me and Mandar were discussing the creative plans on what can be done with the long week-end that was coming up. The plan was dropped entirely due to the cricket match rescheduling.

On Wednesday, Sushil the MLM in the gym which I have joined recently approached me and asked if I would like to join a group of enthusiasts for a trek to Vasota (वासोटा). Now, if it was any other place they were thinking about, I wouldn't have thought twice before refusing, given the soaring temperatures around this part of the world. But because it was Vasota, I was in no doubt that, wife-permitting, I was going. The amazing coincidence that it was Vasota as a destination sometimes makes me believe Paulo Cohello's famous words "When you want something, all the universe conspires in helping you to achieve it." Checked with Mandar as well and though he did not sound exuberant about the idea, he was willing to join in. Manas and Rupali from the training staff were the organizers. We got ourselves registered for the trek.

The plan was to leave on Saturday night so that entire Sunday is available for the trek. The meeting time was 11 PM near Dattawadi where Manas stays with the option of boarding at Big Bazar, Sinhagad Road. Things did not start off well for me as I developed symptoms of common cold by the noon on Saturday. It became worse as the day progressed. I still went ahead and started buying the edibles and stuff. By the sun-down my throat was itching and an onset of throat infection was eminent. I ignored it and then got an reminder SMS with a list of things to carry. It said in addition to other stuff a sleeping mat. Now that was a problem. Few calls to Mandar and Vindy, and bingo, Vindya had it. As usual Vindy sounded bewildered and amused when he heard about the planned trek and that I was starting off within few hours. Off I went to his place picked up the mat, which showed the signs of not being in use for a while but was more than enough for me.

I did not know the meeting point so I asked Sushil to meet me at Erandwane. Around 10.30PM as Sushil, accompanied by Sameer and Pulkesh, started for Erandwane, I visited the medical shop to get myself a inhaler and some citrazen tablets for my running nose. We were the first to arrive with even Manas out of sight. Then came a 28 seater bus. Mandar called me for directions and I went to the main road to get him to the meeting place. It was 11PM. Slowly people started showing up and place was abuzz with chatter, phone calls for directions and to reserve the seats on the bus. Given my height I reserved the seat near the door so that I could stretch my legs.

Finally around midnight we all boarded the bus and started off on Sinhagad Road. We were joined by 3 more members at Big Bazar. As it turned out, there were 25 of us, the members and staff. Moving ahead we joined the Katraj by-pass and started our journey towards Satara on NH4. Took a quick halt at a temple of sorts on the way. The cameras came out and few snaps taken. The night-time temperatures were low and as the bus gathered speed the breeze through the window was a welcome relief from the heat in the city. The only issue was my throat which was troubling me more and more.

We took a tea break after crossing the Khambatki ghat and I swallowed a Combiflam to see if helps relieve me of some throat-ache. The remaining journey till Satara was spent by catching a nap here and a nap there amidst the glaring headlights of on-coming traffic and a driver who was obsessed with honking the horn every time he wanted to overtake even if it was not needed.

I am not sure about the time but finally we left NH4 and entered Satara. We had to ask for directions a couple of places to reach a place called Bamnoli (बामणोली), which is the starting point for the Vasota trek. As it turned out, the road till the tunnel from the base of Ajinkyatara fort is exactly same as the one we took for Thoseghar trip. Only difference being, instead of entering the tunnel on the left, one has to go straight ahead. This started a 35 KM long ghat section with lots of curves and a single lane road. The road conditions were good but the journey seemed to take forever with our bus being the only vehicle on the road. Finally around 3.45 AM we reached Bamnoli and the hunt started for a place to sleep. There is a temple in Bamnoli with huge Veranda in front. Out came the mats and mattresses and we dozed off. Mandar, as it turned out, was sharing his bed with a stray dog that took a liking to Mandar. The thing I noticed when we landed in Bamnoli was the loud screeching sound of bats which reminded me and Mandar about our own Batman Bandya.

At 6.30AM, there was a general movement in the ranks as people started getting up one after another. After searching for toothpaste and getting it over and done with, the body started demanding tea. The breakfast and tea were ordered at a hotel but me, Mandar, Sushil and couple of other folks decided to have it Bhairavnaath Sank center. The tea tasted good and people dispersed to answer natures call and to take a dip in the Shivsagar lake. The trees around the area were full of bats, bats and more bats. That explained the ruckus they were making in the night.

You have to register with the forest officials before embarking on the journey to Vasota. The office opens at 8.00 AM and Rupali went ahead for the registrations. I am not sure what the fees, if any, are for this. That done, you have to hire a boat to take you to the base village of Met-Indavali (मेटइंदवली). As we were 25 members, we hired 2 boats with 12 in one boat and 13 in other. The entire to and fro trip cost us 1600 bucks in total. As we started moving towards the boats, some members amused themselves with Water Mug Knockdown game at one of the stalls while some others in photography of a dead bat. All this while my sore throat did not show any improvement and I popped another Combiflam and added a citrazen for good measure.

Finally people on board the two boats started off at around 8.45 AM. The initial journey was a bit of a bore because we did not know each other and no one had any ideas about what to do next. "The Cameraman" Sushil was basically stuck in a pose, that of pointing at something and clicking. After half an hour, Ganesh, one of the trainers started the round of singing. As we moved on the acquaintances improved. There was a Doc, the physio of the Gym. There was Kailas, one more Kulkarni but I failed to catch the names of others. The songs drifted from new to old to weird (mostly sung by me) to old and so on. And then a turn and the Vasota fort Came into sight. And a beautiful view it was. With the fort in view the singing went up a notch and then by popular demand, me and Mandar started singing "apsara aalee" which was not very easy given the condition of my vocal chords.

Both the boats docked at the banks around 10:15 AM and we all got off. Rupali told us to go towards the "Orange Kamaan" which was not visible from where we were. :-) Continuing to sing, we moved on crossing the dried out areas which must have been under water only a few months ago to reach that orange kamaan and the base village of met-indavali. This is actually not a village. There is a forest office, rest rooms and a canteen of sorts. When we reached there was only this sole person present. I think we had to show him the receipts we got at Bamnoli, but I am not too sure about that.

This is where the trek started. The pack moved on, soon to be defragmented in small groups of 6-8 each. Me and Mandar were in the trailing group. The path went through a dense vegetation which blocked most of the direct sun. But despite that, the heat was on, literally. We were sweating profusely. and had to remember to rehydrate ourselves now and then. Soon there was a regroup point at a water hole where the leaders of the pack were waiting for us trailers. But in this 15 mins or so, I had built up a nice rhythm and did not want to break it. Mandar agreed and we decided to push ahead. the slope gradient was still not very high and we were sucking in all the atmosphere. The trail reminded me of Bhimashankar forest which, I felt, is slightly less denser. Soon there were two ways one could go and not sure which one to take, Mandar took the one on left and I took the one on right ultimately the trails met and some of the gang joined us. Some more hiking and the slope gradient became steep. Now four of us, Ranjeet, Pulkesh, Mandar and me, were quite ahead of everyone else and we decided to press on without a halt.

We came across a board which pointed to the right towards Nageshwar (नागेश्वर) approx 3 KM away. I believe one can actually stay there in the caves overnight but I am not sure about that. We took the left road and after some time, out of nowhere, we came out to a clearing and sun started beating down on us. But all we had to do was to turn around and the entire forest through which we came and the lake beyond were making up a picturesque sight. We decided to take some snaps and look at the scenery for a couple of mins while Ranjeet and Pulkesh moved ahead. Photography done we started moving again and within 5 min, were on top of the fort. The time was 11:45 AM.

There was a temple at the entrance where we dumped our bags and started for the edge where we could see the followers down below. After cheering them up to push hard and breath-in and out and a couple of snaps, we rested under a shade of a huge tree. Slowly the folks started trickling in, exhausted due to the heat and effort, but satisfied that they have reached the top. While we decided to wait for everyone to join in before opening the lunch boxes, small time stuff like biscuits and cakes and chips started coming out of bag and 20 mins. later whole gang was there and we were in a eating frenzy. There was so much stuff going around in circles. The chapatis, paraathaasa, saatoris, shira, shrikhand, curd, khakraas, boiled eggs and much more. As most of the trainers reached the fort after us, we managed a lot of leg-pulling about them needing to get trained from us rather than other way round.

Then the situation of water scarcity developed and Manas went off to search of water. He wanted company so I joined in and few meters ahead, came across a cliff and a valley below which left me stunned. To say that the view was breathtaking would be an understatement. There was another cliff on the right side but we decided to go to "Babu Kada" first and then visited this other cliff. There was a temple of Lord Shiva on the way and everyone passing from there decided that it was the place to be in. The reason being the stone structure with a cross-ventilation made it much more cooler than the surrounding. As the time approached 1.30 PM, there was general push to get everyone moving for the descend as the boats would be there to pick us up at 4.00 PM. Me and Mandar decided to stay back 5 more minutes before making a move. By that time most of the folks had started ahead.

Negotiating the steep slopes while going down was tougher than while coming up and we decide to follow a fellow in red t-shirt who was not at all comfortable with the entire situation. He would keep skidding and sliding almost every step and that slowed us down enormously. Amol, one of the trainer and the DJ were giving him company, so Mandar and me decided to move on. We bumped into another group which was slowed down because a girl had twisted her ankle. We followed them for a while before again deciding that our help was not needed and moved on. We met rest of the group at the water hole and decided to relax while the remaining folks join in.

15 mins later everyone was there. The doc treated the girls ankle and strapped it in crape bandage and we decided to move on. As we reached the banks at around 3.50PM the boats were already there and the return journey started. The only flashy moment was the water fight between the two boats. We reached the village of Bamnoli at 5.15 and the first thing everyone did was to buy a bottle of water and rehydrate. We ordered some misal-pav and used a PHC (Primary Healthcare Center) as our changing room. Then at a bore well pump refreshed ourselves before enjoying the misal-pav and tea.

It was 6.30 PM before we started our journey back and while Manas and the rest were sorting out the confusion regarding whether to stop for dinner or not, I was enjoying the ghat roads. Only one though in my mind. This is a beautiful biking road. :-). We had to take a puke-stop for the Doc and Rupali just before Satara, but rest of the journey was uneventful. We stooped at Hotel new Kailash for a dinner of Besan-Bhakari at 9.30 PM and with our test buds satisfied and tummies full started the last leg of the journey to Pune.

Reached home at 11.30PM, approximately 24 hours after the start. The trek itself is not tough but one needs to be fit enough to handle the steep gradient of the trek. Overall it was very satisfying experience with one more trek deposited in the Bank of Memories' "pleasant experiences" account.

Checkout some snaps here.